Paul Campbell....Interview

Paul Campbell
A journey into the old ways
By: Dude McLean and Alan Halcon

“In 1990 I went down into Baja seeking out the southern most trout stream in the Americas. I came back down these rugged mountain trails, took a fork that I probably shouldn't have taken and led me down into some little Indian villages. In retrospect I believe they might have been Arroyo Leon. I saw all grass huts and I just couldn't believe it. I couldn't see anybody around at all and then as I went further down I saw a bunch of men all of them very tall, six feet tall long black hair. I wanted to stop and talk to them but I was scared to death.” 


That experience led Paul Campbell on a path that he could never have imagined… an unquenchable thirst for knowledge into the old ways was born. His focus became the survival skills of Native Californians.

“I wanted to go out into the woods without taking so much modern gear, to really relate to the outdoors as the California Indian did. After all they were here for at least 13,000 years. You can go out and experiment on your own but you only have a short life time to learn all those skills, I figured I may as well go pick up where they left off.”

Paul's research could only take him so far. He realized there must be people who still knew and practiced primitive skills. little did he know that tracking these people down would lead him into some of the most remote and near forgotten villages where these skills were almost a lost art but were still practiced by a few of the elders.

“I went down to Baja after the rainy season and the roads were washed out. In fact I came up to a bridge and had to throw on my brakes because there wasn't anything there. at about that time there came an old jalopy full of Indian kids and they went right through the rushing water. And so I followed them and waved them over. I didn't know how to open the conversation. I just asked them if they knew anybody who still makes baskets. I followed them back to the village and when I got there, there was an old lady still pounding acorns in a dugout mortar and sifting the acorn meal in a basket that she had made out of juncus herself.”

For the next several years Paul's life was full of tracking down the old ways in the far corners of Baja and California, learning how to build a bow, rabbitsticks, arrows, traps, and so much more. He learned about plants, pigments and animal life.

Campbell didn't even know it yet but he was becoming a master at primitive skills that he longed to know. He also didn't realize that he was writing a book as well. “I have a lousy memory so I took extensive notes” Paul's notes grew as his travels widened and his knowledge came together.

Paul relates the many times that someone would not want to show him how to do something, like the way to make a rabbitstick. Paul sat down took out a cigarette and said “I'm not leaving until you show me how it's done.” So being stubborn paid off in the long run.

Slowly and looking back at it Paul learned relatively fast the secrets that were dying out. In some cases not long after the information and skill was passed onto Paul the elder died.

And as it is with primitive technology one skill led to another. And from what we have witnessed Paul Campbell has accomplished what he set out to do… and then some. His skill at making a rabbitstick, in the old traditional way, is unsurpassed. His replica bows and arrows seem like they have walked out of the past. His other skills are equally as impressive.

We mentioned a book and extensive notes. Paul decided to actually write a book so the information would not be lost to time. “Survival Skills of Native California” hit the marketplace and soon was the hot topic of conversation amongst primitive skills circles. Not since “Naked into the Wilderness” by the McPhersons, has a book dealt so deeply and exclusively about all the primitive skills… unusual for a primitive skills book since it is going into its second edition.

Paul set out to learn and know the skills like the Indians in California so he could go into the woods without modern gear. He has gone far beyond his goal He owns his skills. He is a master.

The Big Chill

A quick guide on hypothermia and how to treat it. 
By: Alan Halcon and Dude Mclean

What, an article about hypothermia in the spring? Sure why not. It really doesn’t need to be freezing to find yourself in trouble. The big chill can move in on you, or someone with you—recognizing the signs and knowing how to properly treat hypothermia can mean the difference between living and dying.

How You Lose Heat to the Environment

Heat always transfers to cold, and it is important to know the four factors surrounding this phenomenon.

Radiation - loss of heat due to the temperature difference. This occurs as long as the ambient temperature is below our bodies 98.6 degrees Fahrenheit.
An example of radiation is the suns heat; one can feel the warmth radiating from the sun. Another example is the warmth felt from a campfire.

Conduction – is the loss of heat through direct contact between objects
An example of conduction is sitting on a cold rock and feeling your butt get cold. Wet clothes coming in contact with your body is another example of loss through conduction.

Convection – is heat loss due to the movement of air or liquid across your skin. The warmer body temperature is carried away and replaced by the cooler air or liquid. Losing heat via water convection occurs more quickly than air convection. An example of air convection is Wind Chill. An example of liquid convection is taking a cold shower or falling in cold water.

Evaporation - heat loss occurring by converting water to vapor
An example of evaporation is the body’s perspiration being cooled at the skins surface.
Evaporation can be responsible for 20-30 percent of heat loss even in temperate conditions. In addition, a non-active person loses approximately 15 percent of his average daily caloric intake through evaporation.

How Your Body Regulates Core Temperature

Vasoconstriction – is the constriction of blood vessels.

Vasodilatation – is the dilatation of the blood vessels

Sweating - cools body through evaporative cooling

Shivering - generates heat through increase in muscle activity. This is limited because of depletion of muscle glucose and fatigue.

Signs and Symptoms of Hypothermia

Any temperature less than 98.6 degrees is linked to hypothermia

In their book “Hypothermia Frostbite and other Cold Injuries” authors Gordon G. Giesbrecht, Ph.d, and Doctor, James A. Wilkerson, write “A mnemonic useful for remembering the early stages of hypothermia is “umbles.” The mildly hypothermic individual: fumbles, stumbles, tumbles, mumbles, and grumbles. The first three items (fumbles, stumbles, tumbles) reflect impairment of motor function, first fine movements and then gross movements. The last two (mumbles and grumbles) indicates intellectual impairment.”

Mild Hypothermia
Normal shivering can begin
Cold sensation and goose bumps
not able to perform complex tasks with hands
shivering can be mild to severe
hands are numb

Moderate Hypothermia
Shivering is intense
obvious lack of muscle coordination
movements are slow and labored
mild confusion, but may appear alert
violent shivering continues
has difficulty speaking
is sluggish in thinking
amnesia begins to appear
gross muscle movements are sluggish
not able to use hands
stumbling is frequent
has difficult time speaking
depressed and withdrawn.

Severe Hypothermia
All shivering stops
exposed skin becomes blue or puffy
muscle coordination is very poor
not able to walk
appears confused
behavior is incoherent and irrational, but may be able to maintain awareness
Muscle stiffness
semiconscious
in a stupor
a loss of awareness of others
pulse and respiration rate decrease
possible heart fibrillation
unconscious
heart beat and respiration are erratic
pulse may not be palpable
Pulmonary edema
cardiac and respiratory failure

How to determine if someone is suffering from hypothermia

If shivering can be stopped voluntarily the person is suffering mild hypothermia
Ask a question that requires higher reasoning in the brain; e.g. say the alphabet backwards. If the person is hypothermic, they won't be able to do it.

If shivering cannot be stopped voluntarily the person may be suffering from moderate to severe hypothermia
If the person is unable to walk a 30 foot straight line, the person is hypothermic.

Treating Hypothermia

It is extremely critical to properly treat a person who is suffering with moderate to severe hypothermia. Failure to properly treat can result in death
There are a few DO NOT DOs one should stick by when treating a person with hypothermia

* Never give alcohol to the victim. Alcohol is a vasodilator and will increase peripheral heat loss

* Never give caffeine to the victim. Caffeine is a diuretic and causes water loss increasing dehydration

* Never allow a victim to smoke. Tobacco/nicotine is a vasoconstrictor and increases the risk of frostbite.

* Never allow a victim to self-help if they are suffering from moderate to severe hypothermia.

* Never and I mean never massage or rub a persons extremities (hands, arms, legs, feet) to get the blood circulating. Doing so can cause a condition called after-drop* and kill the victim.

Treatment Mild Hypothermia

Add more layers of dry clothing
Increase physical activity
get person out of elements
build fire to warm person
increase caloric intake by eating foods with simple sugars. (breads, candy bars, warm water with honey or sugar, etc.

Moderate to Severe Hypothermia

Get person out of elements
Be very gentle with the victim a hypothermic person’s heart is hyper excitable and can lead to arrhythmia
The victim should lay down in the horizontal position
Do not elevate the victims arms or legs while the person is laying down; After-drop can occur.
Apply warm compresses: under both armpits, the groin, and back of the neck.
Give victim warm water with sugar*
If necessary, use hypothermia wrap*
Make sure person heart rate is not present before administering CPR*

After-drop Is where the core temperature actually decreases during re-warming. After-drop occurs by peripheral vessels in extremities dilating if they are re-warmed by external heat sources, rubbing, or massaging. This causes the very cold blood from the extremities to move back to the core. This further decreases the core temperature, and can lead to death. Moreover, this blood is acetic which can lead to cardiac arrhythmias and even death… Re-warm the core only!

Hypothermia Wrap: Make sure the patient is dry. The person must be protected from any moisture in the environment, including a layer to keep the victim from collecting sweat on the skin. Use multiple sleeping bags, wool blankets, wool clothing. 4" of insulation should be all the way around the patient, especially between the patient and the ground to prevent heat loss due to conduction. Include a Mylar "space" blanket to help prevent radiant heat loss. Wrap the entire thing in plastic to protect from wind and water. 

Warm Sugar Water: people with severe hypothermia will not be able to digest solid food; however, they can absorb water and sugars. Giving a diluted mixture of warm water with sugar/Jell-O every 15 minutes will allow the victims metabolism to kick in and generate internal heat.

Urination Urinating will help conserve heat. A full bladder uses body heat to keep urine warm rather than vital organs. Once the person has urinated, body heat will be redirected towards vital organs. You will need to help the person urinate. Open up the Hypothermia Wrap enough to do this and then cover them back up.

CPR a person in severe hypothermia may demonstrate all the clinical signs of death, but they may still be alive and can be revived. During severe hypothermia the heart is hyper excitable and administering CPR can result in fibrillation and death.

Be sure the pulse is completely absent before beginning CPR. Remember, the heart rate may be 2-3/minutes apart and the breathing rate 1/30 seconds. Administering CPR at this point may lead to life-threatening arrhythmias. Check the carotid pulse for a longer time period (up to a minute) to ascertain if there is some slow heartbeat. A hypothermia victim is never dead until warm and dead. If there is no discernible heartbeat begin CPR, and be prepared to continue - persons with hypothermia have been given CPR for up to 3.5 hours and have recovered with no neurological damage.

It’s really up to you!

Basic first-aid is often overlooked by even the most experienced outdoorsmen—Red Cross courses

are available across the country. All it takes is a little effort to help save a life. Hypothermia is one of the most common medical emergencies one will encounter in the outdoors. Knowing how to recognize and treat hypothermia, until professional help arrives, should be a part of your skill set. 

ALTERNATIVE WATER STORAGE

A water storage plan that almost everybody can do and build, not very expensive and you can buy what you need perhaps all in one place

 It is a pool of water made with hay bales or the straw bales would be cheaper and some plastic/poly tarps. and several contractor size plastic bags, some 2x4sx8s boards, you do not have to worry about the grade. You could install this in most backyards. The 2x4sx8s will be used as stakes to hold the bales in place. 

 This type of pool is very easy to make. Use at least 6 to 8 bales per side and maybe 6 bales wide or more if you have room, if it’s much bigger the pressure of the water will be too much for the bales to hold in place. However, it will hold 100s of gallons.

 You need to find a very level section of ground, and get rid of any rocks or sticks so they will not poke holes in the tarp. I would lay down a heavy poly tarp as my ground sheet and then check it for

any objects that might poke through the tarp. To make your straw bales ready, you must put a contractors’ bag over the whole bale, it might take two of them from each end, tie them off to make them secure. They cannot get wet if you have extra, double them up. Arrange the bales in a rectangle and then walk around and form the plastic into the bottom edges. You need to establish the shape of the interior pool, flop any extra plastic up and over the bales. Now put down a pool or pond tarp, you want the least amount of stress on the pool liners, and overlap the corners.  Whatever is extra flop his over the bales as well. There should be enough to reach and have enough slack all around. Tuck that extra under the bales. Now comes the hardest part, cut the 2X4sX8s in half and make a point. Drive the stakes about two feet into the ground that will leave you about 2 feet above the bales, my suggestion is to have at least a stake at each end of the bale around one foot in from the end. To keep the water

clean use a bleach formula of about 16 drops per gallon. You are going to end up with about 2 thousand gallons so the bleach can be poured in using the quart’s size bottles, about two of them will do the trick. If your pool is 16 x 12 x 1 ½’, that is a lot of water, cover the top with more plastic and tie it down on the upright stakes very taut so that water does not settle on the top and get into your pool. You will have to experiment a little to get it right. Even though you have taken safe guards to keep your water pure I would boil it before use or use a Big Berkey type of filter to ensure it is safe. I cannot be there to guide you, so this is at your own risk.

 This plan is by memory and have not done this in over 60 years, I do not think I missed a step, but once you have the idea it will be self-evident as you build the pool. This could be setup to catch rain water as well. Be sure you have some PVC pipe to retrieve the water or a hand pump of some kind, even if all you have are a few buckets they will do.  

 by Dude McLean

"What Is This Blog About, Anyway?"

Over the last several months I have received many emails all asking the basic same question, so I am addressing the answer here just so it is clear, what is this blog about, is it a prepper or a survival blog, is it a primitive skills blog or a book review blog, or a self-reliance blog, the answer is yes it is. This is self-reliance, our lives are not narrow but involve many complex thoughts and life styles, life is large so it is complex. We have many interests and they include several layers. The folks who asked

is it a prepper blog or a survivalist blog, yes it is, prepper is just a way of saying survivalist, seems the media has poisoned the word survivalist and it is happening to the word prepper as well, that is

too bad, it is a fact we are all survivalists, we eat to stay alive so we survive. I could go on but you get the idea. There are a lot, perhaps thousands of survival blogs and forums, I have made an effort not to be a copycat of those other fine efforts, whose writers are much better than I am. But I have been around the block so many times and have experienced a lot of life in my almost 80 years here on this dirt clod. I am compelled to write about what I know, if I do not know it, I shut up. Much is just my ramblings.

 So you can pick and choose what you wish to read, most of the articles are not time sensitive and hopefully will stand the test of time. I really hope most of you get something from my efforts on this little blog.

 The series on the Feral Woodsman has been popular, if nothing else it is at least a nice fantasy, but it could be real, many are doing it and I get contacted by a few of these folks from time to time. I have also run into a few of them in the bush, really they are out there. 

 Trying to be relevant, is not an easy task. I am glad so many have viewed my work. In truth it is not work most of the time, as it is fun for me to do. I hope you all continue to enjoy the blog. 

 by Dude McLean

What do You Really Need?

What do You Really Need?
By: Dude McLean

We are overwhelmed by marketing, by well meaning friends, magazines, and the internet. What am I talking about? GEAR!

What you really need is no big deal and does not have to cost you a house payment.

Lets look at the basics, some you may already have it.

A pack, a knife, a cooking can, fire making stuff, canteen, food, shelter, a blanket/sleeping bag.

To get started I would start with some sort of a small pack, a knapsack should work just fine. They have been around for hundreds of years, you can find them pretty cheap, and I see them at yard sales all the time for a few bucks...I bought a Mule Camelback, brand new, for 3 dollars.

A knife would be nice. For me and many others the only folder I take into the field is a SAK (Swiss Army Knife).The Rucksak or the Outrider are my choices. They both have a locking blade and offer the longest saw of the SAK models.

Conventional wisdom says you need a fixed blade camp knife. I agree with that thinking, but you could do just fine with one of the SAK models.

A fixed blade should be as long as the width of your hand.

A decent fixed blade can cost anywhere from a low of 10 bucks to 100 bucks and up to the rarified air of many hundreds of bucks and even into the thousands; however, a great knife for the camp can be found at thrift stores and yard sales posing as butcher knives, knives, etc., and you can get'em for a buck. They will do just fine in camp use. That's a deal.

FIRE! Matches or a Bic lighter and you are in business. Ahh! but you should have at least three ways to start a fire,O.K., we have two. How about flint and steel and charcloth? A Doans mag bar? A flare?...You choose.

We have made fire for a few reasons. One is for warmth, and to see at night . The other is so we can cook our food, or at the least ,warm it up.

A coffee can answers just fine. Punch a hole on each side at the top attach a wire coat hanger for the bail , season the can and you are in "chef boy r Dudes" kitchen... Carry two if need be. The larger coffe can is close to a number 10 can, or a gallon, and it can be converted into a hobo stove for burning twigs.

Another way to make a twig stove is to get one of those throwaway aluminum cooking pans, add some metal cross bars and you have a stove.

If you want to go Hi-Tech on your stove, grab a soda can and make a Halcon alcohol stove. All of your cooking gear is free...How cool is that?

Water, In most places in the country you will want to carry water, so you need a canteen. two options are a plastic quart bottle works just fine, and a surplus store has military canteens at a cheap price (Many of them come with a cup , so you have another container thrown in , such a deal.)

Shelter, You may or may not need it. But lets look at this, you can make a debris hut, you know the one TBjr. invented ...ahem, sorry but some people think that is true. But to build one the correct way takes a bit of practice and the material to make one must be close by. It only costs your labour.

A few heavy duty contractor bags will work wellas a lean-to, or you you might go the light weight tarp route, they run 50 bucks and up.

Ah.. but you can buy those plastic tarps for 10 bucks and cut them and paste them to your desired shape.

A painters cloth dropcloth works well, as long as you can keep the cotton fairly tight it is rain resistant. You can water proof them as well..

Surplus stores have used military tents in all shapes and sizes..There are so many shapes it makes my brain hurt..You can also find these at yard sales and thrift stores.
A poncho will also work for a lean-to and I have done manytimes...It works, but I would rather have dedicated tarp for the purpose..

Sleep does matter and being comfy determines how well you sleep. Your bed can be a bunch of leaves , pine needles, or the like, all piled up for a nice mattress ( you stuff them in the contractors bag)... I have done this many many times and it is comfy...You can pile a bunch of leaves over you...

You might consider a wool blanket or a poly of some kind..Sleeping bags can found at yard sales and thrift stores. Test out some blankets or quilts as a part of your sleeping system. Always remember your clothes are your first shelter, and are a part of your sleeping system as well.

Eating Food

Prepackaged meals from the store are available. But they aint cheap. You can learn to prepare your own meals ahead of time. It wont cost you much. This info, in case you dont know how to go about, it is also found in the HoodMasters videos.
Dried foods go a long ways. Preparing your own foods is a whole article in and of itself, but you get the idea. When done properly you can have a feast for a week on the cheap and eating like a king.

This is down and Dirty Gear for your dirt time.It will all work just fine.

Cost

Most of this list is a one time cost.

Used knapsack 5.00
SAK, optional 35.00
used fixed blade 1.00
second fixed blade 1.00 buck
matches, water proof 2.00
Bic lighter 1.00
Doan mag bar 6.00
Flint and steel 12.00
Bow and drill 00.00
sparking rod...2.00
road flare 2.00
Coffee can 00.00
Halcon stove 00.00
Alcohol 4.00 bucks
Canteen , soda bottle 00.00

Shelter

debris hut 00.00
Contractor plastic bags 6.00
painters drop cloth 20.00

Sleeping gear

leaves,pine needles 00.00
poly blanket 5.00
wool blanket 10 to 50

Food

prepared meals from the store.for one day about 20
Prepared yourself 20, for a week.

Clothes

If you have nothing suitable already, go haunt the thrift stores
used shirts, 3
pants 4 to 6
jacket 8

I have found brand new clothes with the original price still on them; 50 dollar pants for 4 bucks etc..Boots etc under clothes etc...you already have.

What does this add up to you ask?...about 107.00 bucks. If you throw in all the optional gear about 230 or so bucks...

At this point you have put together all of your gear. The cost will be about your food and the gas to get where you are going.

If you are knowledgable the cost for getting started can very small ...like 30 bucks . You may already have a few things to add to the gear..That will save you And all of this gear is light weight to boot...how cool is that?...

At these prices almost everyone can afford to get out in the bush...No excuse that you do not have the gear...It aint ba contest to see who can spend the most or who has the latest gizmogeewhizbangdodahrazamatazz stuff...Get the HoodWoods videos to help you along the path...

I hope this is of some help to at least a few of you ...Thats my cactus and Im sticking to it...

Not Just another Bow and Drill

Not Just another Bow and Drill
By Alan Halcon and Dude Mclean

Friction fire is one of the most sought after skills. People spend many frustrating hours trying to make fire by rubbing two pieces of wood together. The most common method is the bow and drill. You have all the right materials in place, you have read everything you could possibly get your hands on about the subject, you’re feeling confident and to your chagrin you cannot get a coal. 

“What happened?” you ask yourself. “I know the materials are right. Why is it that I can’t get a coal?” 

Without missing a beat, you grab all the materials get into position and try again. Only this time you figure maybe the cord was slipping, so you take up all the slack on the cord you can. Everything seems to be going fine. You even managed to get some smoke when all of a sudden, SNAP! The cord breaks. 

“Son of a…!” you say to yourself as you throw your bow-drill set into a dark corner in your garage. “I give up! This doesn’t work. The people who wrote this stuff are full of it!”

We have all been through this to some degree or another. Believe us when we tell you, “You’ll get it. Just keep at it”. 

It wasn’t until we met with, Dick Baugh, from Palo Alto Ca., at Winter Count 2004, he showed us a simple little known method that eliminates some of the frustrations people normally have with the traditional bow and drill. Dick proceeded to produce a smaller than normal size bow and drill set from his pocket. This one seemed a little different though. The drill was attached to a thinner than normal cord, which in turn was attached very loosely to the bow. 

“This!” he said “is the Egyptian Bow and drill, as it was shown to me by John Olsen, who said he saw it in a book on Ancient Egypt.” 

Although we had been aware of the Egyptian bow and drill, we had never really taken the opportunity to explore this unique method.

“The Egyptian Bow and Drill” he explained, “seems to eliminate some of the more common problems inherent with the standard/traditional bow and drill.” 

We know from experience the biggest problem with the common bow and drill is excessive wear and tear on the cordage, caused by the cord slipping on the drill itself. Wear and tear is what ultimately causes thinner cords to break. Another problem people seem to have, is getting used to the tension of the drill strung on the bow. For all that have tried the bow and drill, you know if you let go of the drill when strung on the bow, it will go flying. however it is the tension on the cord that allows the drill to spin… Enter the Egyptian Bow and Drill!

Upon returning from winter count we started experimenting with the Egyptian bow and drill by putting it through a series of tests. The first thing we did was take an old mulefat handdrill about 3/8” in diameter and cut a piece about four inches in length. For the cord we decided to use an 18” length of surveyors line. Next we strung the drill on the cord with a simple clove hitch. Another way is to run the cord through a small hole that has been made through the center of the drill and tie it off on either side with a knot. For the bow we used about a 9” section of a branch from a walnut tree. The bearing block we used was sycamore. And finally the hearth was sotol.

    

We set off to try this new ancient device. We wrapped the drill around the cord a la the standard bow and drill but instead of the normal one wrap, we wrapped it about 8 times. --- the length of the cord will determine the amount of wraps. You do however want to make sure that you are able to wrap the cord around the drill at least two times. The first thing we noticed was the lack of tension on the drill, common to the standard bow and drill set up. This was good because it meant there was no need to perform a juggling act just to get all the pieces into place. After settling into a comfortable position, we went to work trying to get a coal. Immediately we started to produce smoke. After about 20 or so seconds, we had a coal. A smile rolled across our face as we saw the little glowing ember. This was indeed an exciting moment for us. 

“Well we know that cord works” we said “lets go smaller.” At which point we decided to use some dental floss we happened to have, from our PSK (personal survival kit), just to see how well it worked. Using the same methods we employed earlier with the surveyors line, we proceeded to use the dental floss. After a couple of turns the floss snapped. Not because the floss slipped on the drill but because it was too thin to handle the downward pressure we were exerting on the drill with the bearing block. We decided to try it again, only this time we were going to use four strands of floss instead of one. The anticipation grew as we wondered if it was going to be at all possible to use floss. We proceeded to work the bow back and forth, slowly at first, and then faster and faster. After a very few seconds we began to produce smoke. We continued to draw the bow, back and forth slowly increasing our speed. When it happened, SNAP! The floss gave way. We sat there in disdain as we stared at the hearth, when we noticed smoke still rising from the notch. Our frowns quickly turned into smiles as we reached for our prepared tinder in order to blow the coal into a flame. 

Our experiments concluded that while the standard bow and drill works and works well, for those of us who have mastered it, the Egyptian bow and drill is far superior in design. The drill attached to the cord along with the extra wraps completely eliminated the cordage from slipping at all. This allows one to use a wider array of cordage such as floss, yucca, dogbane, a shoelace, or in an emergency even a strip of cloth from your cotton t-shirt. It also enables a person with limited experience to have a much greater chance of success. For those of you who have mastered the common bow and drill, you will find that using the Egyptian set up, is not only easier but more efficient. In fact we feel that once you use the Egyptian bow and drill you will no longer want to rely on the common bow and drill… there is no need to! 

By lengthening the cordage on your current bow and securing the drill to the cord with a clove hitch you will have instantly converted your bow into the Egyptian bow set, allowing for your own experimentation with this method… it’s that easy! 

When faced with a survival emergency, it is nice to know the materials you have on hand will work. Most important in survival is knowledge and knowledge is the Wilderness Way. 

Please feel free to post comments on my articles, I enjoy hearing from and responding to my readers. When you're finished posting your comment please click PUBLISH to share your comment with me and my readers. 

"FOCUS AND REFOCUS"

"FOCUS AND REFOCUS" 

        I feel the last thing we ever really want to do is be in a gunfight.. however it could happen , here are few things to keep in mind. In training at a range we only are focused to the front , in a real life drama the badguy might not be alone, you have a second to do a 360, Refocus make sure the scum is alone, mostly they are not alone and the other badguy is going to clock you from behind, no happy dance there. Always check each side of you and behind as fast as you can. A range is really a poor place to train other than how to hit a target. We are are focused on the front all the time, not good.

It might be wise to find a place where you can set up a drill that you can fire in 4 directions, set the targets at close range and practice a rapid fire sequence, now you are focusing on your 360, covering all the bases. 

         It took me a while to find a place in the boondocks where it was safe to fire in 4 directions but it is worth the hunt.

 Better still if you have a buddy to set up the targets behind you and to the sides so that you have no idea how close or far each will be. Over the years I have done extensive training and only one instructor ever covered the possibilities of the behind or side attacks. I find that is a problem with many instructors. Try to make it as real as you can even to the point of your partner yelling at you and calling you names. He should be in a safe location.  

 I am no expert at this but feel this is just common sense. Always when training make sure you put no one in danger, the same thinking has to be in a real life deal as well , where are those bullets going to end up if you miss which you no doubt will when under the gun so to speak., lots to think of .  Just cover your 6 is the thinking .

This is short and sweet but I feel it is very important to train for the possibilities . Lets hope you never have to be in a confrontation at all but it is best to be ready as you can. I think a prudent person is ready and trained. Focus and refocus . 

By Dude McLean

Please feel free to post comments on my articles, I enjoy hearing from and responding to my readers. When you're finished posting your comment please click PUBLISH to share your comment with me and my readers.